Selvedge Denim - What's It All About?

After a number of conversations on Twitter and forums I have decided to pick up the subject of selvage denim, the ins-and-outs and the best/recommended ways to look after your jeans. So I asked expert in the field Doug Ellison, one of the Directors at well renowned North East denim specialist Union Clothing. Here is the gist of what he had to say on the matter;

Buckets & Spades - What is Selvedge Denim?

Doug Ellison - Ok so SELVAGE DENIM is defined by the narrow white woven edge on vintage style denim, this was originally produced on 29-inch looms and went on to 58-62 inch looms to improve efficiency. Individual denim producers would often use a coloured line of thread to identify their product, Levi and Nudie use red, Lee use green, Wrangler use gold and Japanese denim brand EDWIN now using Rainbow selvage.

B&S – So how is it made, are their different techniques?

DE - Different techniques can be used to make Selvage Denim, each technique creates different characteristics in the denim. LEFT HAND TWILL was traditionally used by LEE and offered a softer handle. OPEN ENDED DENIM is generally cheaper to produce although it is bulkier, coarser, and absorbs more dye. RIGHT HAND TWILL produces a diagonal which rises from left to right. Most Levi’s jeans are right hand twill. RING SPUN DENIM was traditionally used into the late 1970s but was replaced by cheaper open end yarns, generally used to acquire a vintage look this denim is harder wearing than open end. RING RING DENIM uses ring spun yarn for both the warp and weft and generally has a lower cost.

B&S - Are there any special ways to care for your Selvage Denim, what do you recommend?

DE - There are a few pointers we at Union Clothing give to our customers to make sure they get the best out of their investment. First, good quality Selvage is not the cheapest but will reward you with years of wear whilst giving you a pair of jeans that you have lived with through every scuff and wear mark which tells a story about you and your lifestyle. Second to get the best out of your SELVAGE JEANS requires some dedication and will power not to succumb to the temptation to wash them to early, if you imagine your jeans to be a tree and you need to remove the bark to get at the grain of the wood below that is in effect what you are doing with a pair of SELVAGE JEANS.

At Union we like to practise what we preach, especially when it comes to selvage denim. Here is an example of Geoff’s selvage denims before he started wearing them, and after the first wash 18 months later;

1 / 2 / 3 / 4

B&S - Cheers fellas, that's cleared a few things up then. Until next time.

If you are looking for some quality selvage jeans then why not have a look Union Clothing's new online store here, or pop into our stores in Newcastle and say hello. Union Clothing, 12 High Bridge, Newcastle, NE1 1EW.

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Hiut Denim

Good quality indigo denim by Hiut in Cardigan, Wales, not a million miles away from my hometown. Available in two fits; Slim and Regular with a choice of Organic or Selvedge denim in both 12oz and 14oz weights. Finished off with Hiut's unique red metalwork branding, really nice touch. It's really exciting to hear about premium quality denim being produced on our shores. 

For more about Hiut visit their store here.

Have you entered the £50 ASOS Voucher Giveaway yet?

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The Blue Jeans

 

 

Levi's Commuter 511 - 12 months, 3 washes

Without a doubt the most worn type item of clothing in my wardrobe are jeans. Most people have their preferred brand when it comes to denim, factoring in fit, wash, quality and price; I lean towards Levi's. I've never really been in the position to splash cash willy nilly but denim is something worth spending a bit extra on. I picked up these for £79 last summer and they've have been worth every penny. Currently I have 2 pairs of jeans in rotation, these Levi's 511 from the Commuter range (above) and a pair of Nudie Thinn Finn. My peeve with the Nudie's is the pocket placement on the back, they're very low, making them look quite droopy. The Levi's fit perfectly.

The jury is still out on how you should wash your jeans; hot, cold, hand wash, machine wash, dry clean, soak before wear, wait donkey's years until they stink....it's hard to know which method to take. Lately I've had quite a few comments about how my Levi's have faded, simple answer is I wore them solid for the first 7 months (cycling a few times a week, which includes getting soaked frequently). When the time came I hand washed them in the sink using cold water and a bit of detergent. 

The Commuter's are made using some techy stuff called "Nano-Sphere", which basically makes them dirt and water repellent. I'm not sure how the dirt bit works but it definitely makes the water run right off which is why they're perfect for cycling.

Pros - Water repellent // Reflective hem detail // Stretch for comfort // Lots of detail // High rise waist

Cons - Slight dye transfer // Knees wearing fast // 

So let's talk about denim, I'd love to hear your thoughts - Are you loyal to a particular brand, what stores do you rate on the higshtreet, which method do you use for washing, how often do you wear them?

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I Won Something

I actually won a competition, "Win a pair of jeans", from Coggles. I seem to do alright with competitions actually, late last year I won an ipod Touch, so I can't complain. For winner the jeans competition I was allowed to choose any pair from the site, so I have gone for these Acne mid blue slim jeans. There aren't really usually my sort of thing but I'm always put for trying something new. Cheers Coggles